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Bright Sun
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Alaçatı, a
village 72 km (45 miles) west of Izmir near
the tip of the
Çesme peninsula
(map),
is one of Aegean
Turkey's up-and-coming
vacation getaway
havens.
Visitors come for the charming
old stone houses on narrow
streets lined with sidewalk
cafes, restaurants and
boutiques. Over
80 small inns
and boutique hotels provide
hospitality. (My favorite is the Taş
Otel.)
Among the most eager visitors are
windsurfers,
who come for the predictable brisk
winds over
a safe, wave-less, sand-bottom bay.
A windfarm
(ranks
of wind-propelled electricity generators)
on a neighboring hilltop testifies
to the strength and reliability of
the
winds.
Alaçatı (AH-lah-chah-tuh)
was founded around
1850, when Ottoman Greek
workers from the Aegean islands were
brought to the mainland to drain
malaria-breeding marshes.
The Greek workers and their families
liked what they found (when the malaria
was gone), and stayed. They named their
village Agrilia. Soon
their vineyards were
producing wine for export.
The League of Nations-mandated exchange
of populations following WWI
changed the face of Agrilia, bringing
Turkish Muslims from the Balkan countries
to the village. The Greek inhabitants
were moved to new homes in Greece.
For years, Agrilia/Alaçatı
slept, a small farming village forgotten
by time. This was lucky, as the village
kept much of its character, allowing
it to be preserved and beautified.
It's now in the midst of a construction
boom. Right next to a beautifully-restored
old stone house, you'll see a derelict
ruin, or a construction site. Some
streets are paved with old stones
in the traditional way, some are
asphalt, some are dirt.
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Above, morning
light in Alaçatı,
Turkey.
Below, the perfect place
for Alaçatı's
famous minted lemonade.
Bottom, a sidewalk
bistrot
awaits dinner guests.
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