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Nigde is an old city on the southern
outskirts of Cappadocia (map)
with several exceptional historic buildings and,
on its outskirts, a striking Byzantine troglodyte
monastery.
Nigde (NEE-deh, alt. 1216 m, 3990
feet, pop. 70,000), a farming center,
is famous for a Turkish proverb: "If
there's no market at Nigde, go on to
Bor." In other words, if you go
in search of something, don't give
up. Persevere!
Among Nigde's historic buildings is
the Seljuk
Turkish Alaeddin Mosque (1223),
on the hill with the fortress; the
fascinating Süngür Bey
Mosque, built by the Seljuks but
extensively by the Mongols,
of all people. The Ak Medrese (1409)
is in post-Seljuk, quasi-Mongol style.
Nigde's museum houses the mummified
remains of a blonde Byzantine nun of
the 900s discovered in the church-filled Ihlara
Valley.
The troglodyte monastery is at Eski
Gümüsler, 10 km (6
miles) east of Nigde's center
The city's famous market still
takes place on Thursday around
the city's clock tower near
the hill with the fortress and Alaeddin
Mosque, so if you plan ahead you won't
need to continue to Bor, 10
km (6 miles) to the southwest.
Nigde's stock of hotels isn't great,
but it'll do. Most people stop here
for just part of a day to see the
mosques and Eski Gümüsler
on their way to somewhere else.
Nigde has bus service,
and trains on
the line between Ankara and Adana stop
here. The nearest airport is
at Nevsehir (Tuzköy),
with two flights a week to and from Istanbul.
(Kayseri and Adana have
several flights daily to and from Istanbul.)
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Above, the
lofty portal of Nigde's Ak
Medrese (White Seminary,
1409).
Below, an
Iconoclastic-period troglodytic Byzantine church
at Eski Gümüsler. |
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