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Bright Sun
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Belek Tourism
Center, 36km
(22 miles) east of Antalya and
just south of Serik on
Turkey's Mediterranean
coast, is a planned seaside
resort with beaches, luxury hotels,
lush golf
courses and
other vacation-time amusements.
Golf is, in fact,
one of Belek's main reasons for existence.
The plan was to attract avid
golfers from
around the world to a Mediterranean
resort planned with golfers in
mind, but also close to many other
attractions.
Important changes to Turkish
laws regarding foreign ownership
of real property triggered
an explosive boom in real estate sales
and villa
development construction, and now hundreds
of villas large and small
compete for
road frontage and water sources with
the large hotels. Like the large hotels,
the villa compounds are gated communities
open only to property owners or guests.
Belek has a small
town center with municipal
buildings, a
city hall,
various
services, and shopping streets. Modern
replicas of ancient Roman aqueducts and
arches are common decorations in the
city (really town) center.
Transportation among
resorts, and to and from the town center
and nearby
sights, may need some planning. The
Tourism Center covers a large area,
the roads can be confusing,
and the
signage, while helpful,
is often inadequate.
If you're driving your own
car, allow
some time for wrong turns, dead ends
and asking directions. If you're
coming by taxi, expect the fare to
reflect
the relatively long distances covered.
The only problem with Belek? It
could be anywhere:
Turkey, Thailand, Mexico, Paraguay,
Spain. There's little that is Turkish
about it except the
many workers who construct all the
villas, manicure the golf courses,
and work in the hotels. It's a gigantic
development still under construction,
a villa sales office, a shopping mall,
a tangle of busy roads, and vast expanses
of grass kept green and fresh, even
in the withering Mediterranean sun,
by rivers of fresh water and tons of
chemical fertilizers.
Why anyone would want to make a beautiful
pine-forested stretch of Mediterranean
shoreline resemble the rainy downs
of Scotland (where golf originated)
I do not know.
If tourism is a business, then Belek,
like CancĂșn,
is its
factory: resources
and tourists go in one end, money comes
out the other.
Don't get me wrong. There's
nothing wrong with money. We all need it, and
all of the workers at Belek are undoubtedly
happy to have their jobs so they can
provide for their families. Turkey's
economy relies heavily on tourism for
billions in foreign exchange, and tourism
has helped many Turks to better their
lives, their health, and their children's
promise for the future.
Belek is successful.
Lots of people like it.
As for me, I think of my favorite
boutique hotel in the
historic
center of Antalya,
the Tuvana,
with its charming
atmosphere,
personal
service,
friendly owner and manager, and I
want no part of a huge gated golf-course
hotel with a staff of hundreds.
I think of what lies just east and
inland from Belek: the road to Köprülü Kanyon
National Park. After my
visit to Belek, I drove this road,
a narrow two-lane in good condition
that winds through farming country
dotted with ancient aqueducts, up into
the mountains, with spectacular views
of the peaks and the emerald-green
river that courses among them. This,
for me, is Turkey: sun, beautiful
countryside, farming villages, friendly
people (they'll
take you rafting along
the river if you like), and ancient
Roman ruins
(Selge,
at the top
of the valley.)
Belek? If you like
it, it's
yours.
Hope you enjoy it! I won't crowd your
space.
If you want to reach me, I'll be in
Turkey.
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Above, fake
Roman arch (one of many).
Below, Happyland? Not
for me.
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