On İstiklal Caddesi a block southwest of Taksim Square, Hacı Baba is a longtime favorite with glassed-in terrace tables overlooking the pleasant courtyard of the Greek Orthodox Church next door. More...
Here's the rundown on breakfast places. For later in the day and night, try:
Asmalı Mescit Sokak
Two of my favorites here are Asmalı Cavit at No. 16-D, and Yakup-2 right across the street from it at No. 21. Both are meyhanes, or taverna-restaurants, where alcoholic beverages (beer, wine, rakı) are looked upon as an integral part of the meal.
Lined with small cafés, bars and restos, this is one of the first places to cruise.
At the southern end of Sofyalı Sokak, the Tünel Pasajı is the courtyard of a 19th-century building right across the street from the entrance to the Tünel subway station. It's jammed with café-bar-restaurants, some with outdoor tables. More...
A wonderful Art Nouveau monument is again open and serving after having been closed for decades. Step back in time to the turn of the century. Unfortunately there are no more profiteroles—they serve fast-food burgers and fries now. More...