The Sirkeci neighborhood just
south of Sirkeci
Station in Old Istanbul,
has a nice scene on summer evenings,
two dozen small to medium-sized hotels,
and several moderately-priced
tourist restaurants serving
at outdoor/sidewalk tables, as well
as the many simple
local "workers' restaurants" (esnaf lokantaları)
next to the Hocapaşa mosque,
with both streetside tables under hanging
and indoor tables for the rare (in
summer) rainy day.
Horn is just a few blocks to
the north and east (map).
The relatively wide stone-paved
street running more or less east-west
and marking the southern boundary of
this hotel-and-restaurant district. Its
hotels are varied and mostly of very
good quality: Hotel
Yaşmak Sultan and a dozen others.
Because they are all on the north side
of the street facing south, their front rooms enjoy
abundant sunlight, but the traffic along Ebusuud Caddesi may make some front rooms noisy..
A short, narrow north-south
street along the side of the Hotel Yaşmak Sultan. Rooms here get much less (or no) direct sun, but also less traffic noise.
The strange long name is a concatenation of two street names: northwest of Orhaniye Caddesi it is Muradiye, but between Orhaniye and Tayahatun Sokak it is Hüdavendigâr, which means
something like "world-conqueror," and
of the many fantasy sobriquets favored
by the Ottoman sultans.
It's the route for the Bağcılar-Kabataş
andis thus closed to most car traffic (although some are allowed to traverse it, dodging the trams). Because
the hotels facing it are air-conditioned
noise is usually not a big problem
you want to sleep with your windows
open (though you will get used to hearing the tram bells). Hotels include
Express Hotel and Hotel
İlkay on the
north side facing south, with more sun.
Running between Orhaniye Caddesi and Taya Hatun Sokak, this street is also lined with hotels, restaurants, and an entrance for the Marmaray underground train. Because Muradiye-Hüdavendigâr is closed to most traffic, vehicles use Nöbethane Caddesi to reach the hotels and restaurants to the north of Muradiye-Hüdavendigâr; but there's no real through traffic, so it's not too bad.
Running between and parallel
to Ebusuud and Hüdavendigâr
caddesis, it is narrower, but also
not a through
street, so there is little traffic.
Restaurants fill much of the street,
and if there is a noise problem,
it's usually from them (and minimal)
rather than from cars. Hotels include the Hotel Sapphire (Safir).
A north-south street beween Ebsuud Caddesi and
Station, crossing Muradiye Caddesi and its tram line. The prime hotel here is the Neorion, only a few steps from all the restaurants on İbni Kemal Caddesi and in nearby Hocapaşa. A smaller hotel nearer to Sirkeci Station is the Elanaz.
Taya Hatun Sokak
A quiet side street running along the
stone walls of Gülhane
Park, it is
home to the good Sirkeci
Mansion Hotel, and many others, including the small budget Tayahatun Hotel.
—by Tom Brosnahan
see how close Ayasofya is?
(Upper right corner)