Since Ottoman times, Istanbul's Beyoğlu (BEY-oh-loo) district has been the best place for an evening's entertainment. Here's the short list of my favorite places:
Babylon, Şeyhbender Sokak 3, off Sofyalı Sokak near Tünel Square, is among the city's most popular jazz clubs.
Kervansaray (tel +90-212-247-1630), on the northern side of the Hilton Istanbul arcade-entrance, offers the classic folk-and-belly dancing show your parents watched when they visited Istanbul 30 years ago, and what Golden Age tour groups watch today.