Kadıköy, on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus just south of Haydarpaşa (map), was known in Byzantine times as Chalcedon. Today, it's a bustling commercial and transportation center, and an Asian residential district of the megalopolis of Istanbul. Kadıköy is untouristy and very Turkish middle-class, yet it is the place where old and modern Istanbul meet. People of all ages come to Kadıköy to have drinks, chat, and shop at countless unique stores in the district. It's well worth a half-day visit, perhaps combined with a visit to Üsküdar to the north.
Things to Do and See in Kadıköy
There is a lot to do and see in Kadıköy:
Food and Drinks
The Kadıköy market district (çarşı), just inland from the ferry docks, is a particularly appealing one, with bright fruits and vegetables, lots of fish, and a variety of good restaurants with sidewalk tables in fair weather. A bit farther along Güneşlibahçe Sokak and on side streets is Kadıköy's meyhane district, dozens of Turkish tavernas serving good meals and any alcoholic beverages you may want. While you are here, don’t miss the opportunity to see one of Kadiköy’s iconic symbols, the Kadıköy Bull Statue, which traveled all the way from France to Germany and later to the Ottoman Empire until arriving at this particular point in Kadıköy.
Moda Street
If you're up for a walk, continue south along Moda Caddesi to the tea gardens on a promontory at Moda, with fine panoramic views across the Sea of Marmara to Old Istanbul. An alternate walk is along the seaside promenade that begins at the Kadıköy ferry docks and winds along the shore south and east for kilometers.
Moda Sahil Park
Moda Coastal Park is a great place to relax by the Bosphorus in the evening. Locals often come here for a peaceful walk or to chat with friends while lying on the grass. It's a nice park with lots of green space and amazing views of the Bosphorus.
Bağdat Caddesi
Inland, Bağdat Caddesi (Baghdad Avenue) is Kadıköy's main commercial street, lined with upscale boutiques, stores, cafés, bars, restaurants, and businesses. Its traffic lanes are jammed with BMWs, Range Rovers, Alfa Romeos, and other luxury automobiles, its sidewalks thronged with the young (and not-so-young), mostly beautiful, and well-dressed.
Fenerbahçe
Further south and east at Fenerbahçe ("Lighthouse Garden"—you'll see the lighthouse) is a beautiful park built and maintained by the Turkish Touring & Automobile Association. Its Romantika Restaurant is a fine place for a light meal or beverage, with indoor and outdoor dining areas, all with sea views.
Yeldeğirmeni Street
Yeldeğirmeni Street (Windmill Street) was once known for its windmills; however, as years went on, tall buildings took the place of the windmills, yet the name stuck. Today, it's one of the most well-known bohemian neighborhoods in Istanbul with its streets full of street art, colorful murals, galleries, and charming cafes.
Tellalzade Street
Kadıköy is also a popular destination among collectors, musicians, and artists. In Tellalzade Street, you can find many different antique shops and art galleries, full of hidden gems.
Akmar Pasaj
If you want to find rare second-hand books or books published in different languages, Akmar Pasaj is the place you want to check. Here you will find many bookstores and anything related to books.
Haydarpaşa Station
Built in 1908 by two German architects in Neo-classical style, Haydarpaşa Station is an iconic view that you will see every time you arrive in Kadıköy by ferry. It is under renovation at the moment after a big fire destroyed its roof in 2010.
Also, right next to the station, there is an archaeological open-air museum of an ancient Hellenistic coastal town, which they discovered when renovating the station. It had been hidden under the station for hundreds of years!
Süreyya Opera House
Built in 1927, Süreyya Opera House was the first opera house on the Asian side of Istanbul, however due to some architectural problems, it served as a cinema up until 2007. Today, it is renovated and opera, ballet and classical music performances are regularly hosted.
The Fish Bazaar
The Fish Bazaar in Kadıköy is where locals go when they shop for seafood; as a result, you can always find fresh fish here for affordable prices. Also, there are really good fish restaurants around the bazaar.
Istanbul Toy Museum
Istanbul Toy Museum is a good and small museum that exhibits toys & miniatures dating back 300+ years, with over 4,000 toys from all over the world. There are also shows and events from time to time which can be a great experience for both children and adults.
Gazhane Museum
Originally, a real gaswork that produced coal gas in Istanbul, this interesting museum, with interesting exhibitions and events year-round, serves as one of the newest cultural and arts centers of Istanbul.
How to Get Around in Kadıköy
Şehir Hatları, TurYol, and Dentur Avrasya ferryboats cross the Bosphorus regularly from Karaköy (Galata) and Eminönü at the mouth of the Golden Horn to Kadıköy. The voyage is among Istanbul's greatest value-for-money pleasures: a 40-minute intercontinental cruise.
The M4 Metro line goes from the Kadıköy ferry docks southeast to Kartal, with a connection to the Marmaray at Ayrılık Çeşmesi. From the bus station right next to the ferry docks, Havabüs Airport buses travel to Sabiha Gökçen Airport, farther to the east.
—by İsmail Can Turan
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