Üsküdar, once known as Scutari, is a large district on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus in metropolitan Istanbul. For visitors to Istanbul, Üsküdar is important for its mosques and its transport possibilities.
What to See & Do
There is a lot to do and see in Üsküdar:
Maiden’s Tower
The Maiden’s Tower is the true symbol of Üsküdar, and creates an almost perfect scene in the mind next to the world-famous Bosphorus. Back in the day, it was used as a watch tower. But this small islet also has an interesting history behind it.
According to one popular legend, a Byzantine emperor was told by a scholar that his beloved daughter would be stung by a snake on her 18th birthday. Desperate to protect her, the emperor had this tower built on a tiny island, isolating his daughter there for her safety. Despite all his precautions, on her 18th birthday, a snake hidden within a basket of grapes sent as a gift bit and poisoned the princess, fulfilling the prophecy.
Fish Market
When traveling around Üsküdar, you will see people fishing right in the middle of the city. These fishermen not only catch fish for their families but also sell them at this small fish market. This means the fish you find here is always incredibly fresh, and the prices are very reasonable.
You can buy local favorites like anchovies (hamsi), sea bass (levrek), gilt-head bream (çupra), and much more. You can also enjoy Midye Dolma or a grilled fish sandwich (balık ekmek) right at the small fish restaurants located in the market.
Kuşkonmaz Mosque
Built in the 18th century during Sultan Selim III's reign and designed by the renowned architect Mimar Sinan, the Kuşkonmaz Mosque fascinates many due to its unusual name, which means "where birds don't perch."
This interesting name originates from its location right on the sea's edge, particularly at that spot on Üsküdar's shoreline, where the constant, forceful sea breeze and strong winds from the Bosphorus prevent birds from landing on the mosque.
Mihrimah Sultan Mosque
The Mihrimah Sultan Camii (1547), a work designed by the great Mimar Sinan for Mihrimah Sultan, the favorite daughter of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent, is another popular mosque in Üsküdar. (Mihrimah Sultan's other mosque, near the city walls, is even more spectacular.)
Her mosque, nicely restored, is on the north side of the plaza just opposite the ferry docks. North of the mosque itself is its Dar-üş Şifa, or Health Center. You enter this building by a doorway that could have come from Seljuk Turkish times, but when you get inside, you find a shiny, ultra-modern, up-to-the-minute medical clinic—a wonderful continuation of the usage of an ancient building with modern technology.
Yeni Valide Mosque
On the southern side of the plaza is the Yeni Valide Camii (or Valide-i Cedid Camii, "Mosque of the New Queen Mother," 1710), a later Ottoman mosque that's part of a full mosque complex (külliye) including several other charitable service buildings.
The Queen Mother of the mosque's name, by the way, was Gülnüş Emetullah Hatun, mother of Sultan Ahmet III (builder of the Sultanahmet [Blue] Mosque).
Tiled Mosque (Çinili Cami)
Inland up a hill is the charming small Tiled Mosque (Çinili Cami), well worth a visit to see its exquisite İznik colored tiles, especially if you have not visited the even more exquisite Rüstem Pasha Mosque near the Egyptian (Spice) Bazaar in Eminönü.
Beylerbeyi Palace
While not as majestic and grandiose as Topkapi Palace, Beylerbeyi Palace is an amazing Ottoman-era palace that speaks with elegance, luxury, and craftsmanship in every detail. Built with a Neo-Baroque architectural influence, it was historically used to host foreign dignitaries. Today, it serves as a museum and is definitely a worthwhile visit if you're in Üsküdar.
Kuzguncuk
Now the second-largest city in Europe (after Moscow), Istanbul has lost a lot of its antique charm to urbanization. To get a glimpse of what Istanbul used to be, take a bus or taxi north along the shore from Üsküdar to Kuzguncuk and stroll inland along İcadiye Caddesi, the main street shaded by huge sycamore trees.
On your left, a synagogue. Further along, on your right, a Greek Orthodox church. Here and there, Turkish coffee- and tea-houses and little eateries. The pace is slow, the ambience relaxed.
Çengelköy
Çengelköy is one of the most fascinating and authentic nostalgic neighborhoods in Istanbul. Here, the daily life of modern Istanbul and the historical city mix together. One of the first things you will notice will be the eye-catching and majestic Yalis (mansions), which are just by the shore.
You will also see lots of wooden fishermen's boats floating nearby. There are plenty of waterside tea gardens, where you can sit and watch the amazing scene of the Bosphorus. An amazing place if you want to experience the old Istanbul.
Camlica Hill
Çamlıca Hill, which was used as an observation point during the Byzantine period, is the perfect place to watch the beautiful Istanbul scenery. Full of greenery and beautiful scenery of Istanbul and the Bosphorus.
Camlica Tower
If you plan to visit Camlica Hill and you have the time, you should definitely visit the Camlica Tower, the tallest building in Istanbul. Here you will find observation decks and restaurants, with scenery that you can’t find anywhere else in Istanbul.
Üsküdar Transport
The ferry docks and cruises are prominent all along the shore of the Üsküdar plaza: the Şehir Hatları ferries, the TurYol ferries, and the Dentur Avrasya ferries going to Eminönü, Karaköy, Kabataş, and Beşiktaş.
Just inland from the ferry docks are numerous bus and minibus stops and taxi stands good for trips north and south along the Bosphorus shore, and eastward into Istanbul's Anatolian suburbs.
The Marmaray has a station near the ferry docks in Üsküdar. Although the Marmaray train under the Bosphorus is the fastest way to travel between Europe and Asia, I still prefer the ferries.
About 2.5 km (1.5 miles) south along the shore from the Üsküdar ferry dock is the Harem Otogar, with intercity buses to all of Anatolian Turkey and beyond. About 2.5 km (1.5 miles) farther south is Kadıköy, with its Metro and city bus terminals, and its docks for ferries to Eminönü and Karaköy.
—by İsmail Can Turan
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